Rogachev V. I., Gordina S. V., Nemechkin V. N. A. O. Heikel’s Work as a Source on Material Culture and Contemporary Revitalization Practices

Posted on 28.06.2026 by editor

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Original article

https://doi.org/10.15507/2076-2577.26182.234-253
https://elibrary.ru/nucivx
УДК / UDC 39:008 Гейкель

A. O. Heikel’s Work as a Source on Material Culture and Contemporary Revitalization Practices

V. I. Rogachev, S. V. Gordina, V. N. Nemechkin
National Research Mordovia State University, Saransk, Russian Federation

Abstract

Introduction. The relevance of this study is determined by the growing interest in authentic forms of national culture and the need to draw upon reliable sources for the revitalization of the traditional costume and embroidery of the Mordovian people in the contemporary context. The aim of the study is to identify and analyze the potential applications of the work “Mordovian Costume and Ornament” by the Finnish ethnographer A. O. Heikel as a  ource on material culture and as a foundation for contemporary revitalization practices in various fields of folk art.

Materials and Methods. A. O. Heikel’s monograph “Mordovian Costume and Ornament” (1899) is examined as a significant primary source on the material culture of the Mordovian people. To analyze the evolution of the ethnographer’s views and his methods of documenting ethnographic material, the authors employed the historical-genetic method. Source criticism was applied to assess the completeness, reliability, and representativeness of the collected data, as well as to analyze Heikel’s fieldwork techniques, including visual observation, interviews, collection building, and sketching. The method of retrospective reconstruction was used to evaluate the potential application of Heikel’s data (patterns of garment construction and ornamental designs) for the reconstruction of lost costume elements by contemporary artisans.

Results and Discussion. Heikel’s work represents a unique collection of data, comprising more than 250 color illustrations and approximately 2,000 ornament pattern diagrams. The distinctive features of the Finnish researcher’s methodology have been identified, including the detailed documentation of garment construction and embroidery techniques. He was the first scholar to systematize the folk terminology of ornaments (e.g., numolon pilet, vete kit). The significance of his work extends beyond that of a passive archival source. The inclusion of precise garment-cutting patterns and authentic names of ornamental motifs makes it an effective methodological guide for contemporary artisans, enabling the reconstruction not only of the form but also of the semantic content of traditional costume.

Conclusion. In the context of contemporary ethnocultural processes, the scholar’s work acquires a new function, serving as a scientifically grounded foundation for the revitalization and authentic reproduction of traditional heritage. Future research prospects are associated with the creation of a digital database of Heikel’s ornaments, the field-based verification of his terminology, and the development of validated reconstructions of traditional Mordovian costume based on his schemes for use in educational and heritage revitalization projects.

Keywords: A. О. Heikel, ethnography, Finno-Ugric Peoples, Mordovian People, traditional clothing, ornament, revitalization

Conflict of interest: The authors declare no conflict of interest.

For citation: Rogachev V.I., Gordina S.V., Nemechkin V.N. A. O. Heikel’s Work as a Source on Material Culture and Contemporary Revitalization Practices. Finno–Ugric World. 2026;18(2):234‒253. https://doi.org/10.15507/2076-2577.26182.234-253

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Information about the authors:

Vladimir I. Rogachev, Dr.Sci. (Philos.), Associate Professor, Leading Researcher of the Interregional Research Center for Finno-Ugric Studies, National Research Mordovia State University (68 Bolshevistskaya St., Saransk 430005, Russian Federation), ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2830-8667, rogachev-v@bk.ru

Svetlana V. Gordina, Cand.Sci. (Ped.), Director of the Editorial Board of Scientific Journals, Higher School for Development of Scientific and Educational Potential, National Research Mordovia State University (68 Bolshevistskaya St., Saransk 430005, Russian Federation), ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2265-418X, sciedit@mrsu.ru

Vasily N. Nemechkin, Cand.Sci. (Law), Associate Professor, Director of the Interregional Research Center of Finno-Ugric Studies, National Research Mordovia State University (68 Bolshevistskaya St., Saransk 430005, Russian Federation), ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3650-4185, modmn@mail.ru

Authors’ contribution:

V. I. Rogachev – ideas; formulation or evolution of overarching research goals and aims; preparation and creation of the published work.

S. V. Gordina – ideas; formulation or evolution of overarching research goals and aims; preparation and creation of the published work by those from the original research group, specifically critical review, commentary or revision – including pre- or post-publication stages.

V. N. Nemechkin – verification of the reproducibility of the research results within the framework of the objectives of the research; conducting a research and investigation process, specifically performing the data.

All authors have read and approved the final manuscript.

Submitted 07.03.2026; revised 21.04.2026; accepted 28.04.2026

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